March 10, 2017
Roll 2 of Fomapan R-100 regular 8mm film was synced to audio. Watch it on YouTube.
I did it shot by shot as separate files then cut and pasted all of the shots into one without any of the clapboards showing.
March 3, 2017
I use the old equipment. The 8mm format is the least expensive of all movie films. Yet, 4K scans look GREAT! Sound sync happens digitally. But digital is expensive, too. Projected 8mm films look great, 8mm film projectors make big movies. Not as big as 16mm or 35mm but they are 4 feet wide and that is also great.
My goal is to make 8mm film prints to project copies of precious original negatives. Films get scratched and wear out, being projected over and over again, and by making copies you can have undamaged ones made. Nice!
My equipment used to be used at the Pgh Art Inst to make 16mm film copies that were projected. My printer has two gates and prints sound.
I have 16mm negatives and work print positives as well as reversal films. I have optical sound on films I have made and edited at the Pgh Filmmakers.
But, 8mm is more doable. Before I load 100 feet of 16mm film I will load 25 feet of regular 8mm and get it right. My last shoot used a steadycam and a 5.5mm wide lens. The lens shade made a vingnetted circle, cutting off the corners, surprising me. I am still making mistakes. Just not on 35mm film equipment.
The links shown above have lots of information in them about developing movie film. I just published my latest video. It is all about how I developed the film, Fomapan R 100 regular 8mm.
This is an update as of Feb. 28, 2017:
I have developed Fomapan R-100 by mixing loose chemicals and not with the kit but from the tech sheet provided by Foma. I made extensive video documentation of the process as a first step to record how it was done. The film was also slit and spliced with leader onto a 100 foot reel ready for projection.
I have developed Fomapan R-100 regular 8mm movie film using the chemical kit available from Freestyle Photo.
This post is just a place holder until I can make a proper video about how to do it. There is one on line but it is in German with English subtitles.
Another, just in German, shows the drying device, and is in my playlist about developing.
Information like this is exceedingly rare and difficult to find.
Now, what I ended up doing, was to mix the chemicals sequentially. They were not premixed and stored in bottles because I didn’t have them. The developer was saved in an old glass coffee pot. But, new mixes were only made in one 2000ml beaker, one after another, after a wash out.
Instructions with the developing chemicals are sketchy. 300ml of distilled water +30ml of chemical Part A. That is about it. Go figure. I had to.
Film will not fit onto the 10m LOMO spiral developing spiral unless you rip off at least a foot and a half off each end. That is if you loaded the film in the camera in the light. The ends get flashed and are useless. I didn’t and used the UPB-1A 15m developing spirals, loading and reloading in total darkness. I got more than 3 feet more film with pictures all the way to the end on half. A little was black from loading in the dark on the other half.
1 liter is enough in the 10m tank, more than that is required in the 15m tank. I used 1.5 liter but 1200ml would be enough. The chemicals supplied mix 2.5 Liters. So, next time, I will mix 1200ml of distilled water with 120ml of chemical Part A. That is 4x the directions, when using the UPB 1-A 15m tank.
Now that was enough for one roll of 25 foot Regular 8mm film. But they come with extra so the film is actually longer. I buy Regular 8mm film in 100 foot reels. I do not know how long those reels actually are, but I’m going to find out soon because I have some and I bought a 100 foot spiral developing tank. Suffice it to say that 4x the chemicals will be needed or 4 liters? Two developing kits will be needed. Here is a video about the unboxing of the new LOMO spiral 100 foot developing tank.