Two filters were made for this camera. One is the Cloud No. 13 Filter which came in a little box and the other is a Close-Up Attachment. I made a video about alternatives to use.
The other addition came in a little yellow and black container and it is a close up lens called, Kodak No. 13 Close-up Attachment. Tabs on them need to be bent a little bit to get them to fit tightly. Not all of the tabs, just a few are enough.
Here are some more photographs taken with the Brownie Kodak Hawkeye Camera using a Yellow filter. A Yellow 2 filter, or K2 as it is labeled on the filter edge, takes away one stop of light. The film I used, Arista 100, added sensitivity over the design of the camera of one stop. The camera shoots at 1/40 and f16.
The light level was 40+1 block on my Sekonic incident light meter, not very bright, but still on the high scale. Using 100 ISO, exposure was calculated to be f11 at 1/40th of a second. The camera, being at 1/40th of a second & f16, would shoot that light as one stop underexposed. The addition of the Y2 or K2 filter blocked light one stop more light, making exposure 1/40 @ f22, or two stops underexposed.
However, the scanner sees all and made absolutely great renderings. Have a look. Click on a picture and it will load a bigger version of it.
The film was developed in Dektol 1:1 moments after taking them. Time was the minimum recommended (8-10) at 8 minuets. A prewash was necessary because that water comes out very green. 8 minuets of negative development makes the lights print very well. Less development made the dark thick parts on the negative less so and the lights on the prints came out with tone in them. Nice.
Something else may be going on here. I saw a video on YouTube about shooting developing paper as film on a snowy day. The author of the video used a (yellow?) filter to lower contrast, but he was shooting on paper negatives. It seems to have worked for me as well.
Anyway, the pictures certainly look like an overcast day.
Now I bought another of these cameras and made a video