What is a proper negative? Let’s look at exposure in a different way. The flash unit I’ve been using seems to think that it know best as to what is a correct exposure and as a result what is a proper negative. Let’s have a look. When the flash is set to an automatic setting, Red or Blue, it will adjust the duration of the flash to achieve a reflected light reading, made through the sensor on the front of the flash head, and the results will be pretty much the same all of the time. In this inquiry we will be looking at direct flash pictures taken with automatic settings. No bounce flash will be used until proper samples are shown.
43-3, and 4 next to it, not shown here, were taken with automatic settings and a direct flash. Note the nasty shadows in white on the negative on the right side of the camera. 90mm LS, no 2x converter, dot 400, WA, Red, 0 degrees, U, 8, f2.8, 1/125 The next shot passed the Green flash test so this is the same, same settings. Focus was off but that is not the subject here. f2.8 makes it difficult to focus. “This is the first time that all of the pictures came out correctly. The even tonality suggests to me that the flash has adjusted everything to its own settings. I tried a variety of things.” I did want more contrast in the negative and bought new film to develop longer.
44-6 from page 85, Arista 400, 90mm, dot 400, WA, Red, 0 degrees, U8, f2.8, 125 12’, Green, The overhead light was on and so was the lamp behind me. Developing was by the box information. 12-13 minuets in D-76 1:1. I used 13 minuets. Different film, longer development, different effect, pretty much the same though. Just a little darker. Pages, like 85, are in my journal which is not published; this is lifted from it because I cannot print a hard copy right now as I am out of ink.
45-2 from page 92, TX400 called Tri-X 400, 90 LS, 2X teleconverter, Vivitar 2800, room lights, Pentax 6×7 4158461 Chimney Finder and strap, camera set to 220, Camera on 8, lens on U, I was on the couch almost 9’ away. F4. The 2X teleconverter takes two stops of light. The light meter was set at the line under 100. No panel was used in the flash. The shutter on the LS lens was set on 1/250 for hand holding this big honking lens. A floor lamp was on situated at the right Ceiling lights were on full and it was dark outside. A torch was used to focus with.
46-3 from page 95, 400TX 165 LS, 4 on camera speed is 1/4th of a second, chimney view finder, Big pipe tripod, Vivitar 2800 flash, Blue Automatic, f8, closest focus possible at 5’1” to back of chimney. It was daytime, the lights were on, all of them. F8, 4, Blue. 400 line. Shot 6 had all of the lights turned off and it looks just the same.
47-7 from page 100. Vertical counter clockwise rotation with the flash on the bottom left. f8, Blue, 9’ away. Automatic setting on the flash.
47-9 from page 100. Vertical, clockwise rotation with the flash on the top right, f16, Manual, 9’ away, 1/250. The camera was 4148168, the lens 165LS, the camera was set on 4. The sun was up but not shining into the living room, Vivitar 2800 flash, Manual mostly, 1/250th of a second shutter, 400TX film, pentaprism TTL finder, 400 line. I wanted better focus so manual was used with f16. Ambient light played a part in this exposure. More on that later.
48-1 from page 103. 4148168 400TX 165LS 4 Vivitar 2800 no panel 400 line 1/250, all the lights were on. M f5.6 75* +2 Now this is a shot taken with the flash set on Manual and the light bounced off the ceiling but it makes a good computer print and it looks like the other negatives so it may be a proper negative.
49-2 page 105. This film was pushed to 1600 in processing to see how dark it would get. The others were developed 9 3/4-10 min but this was 13 1/4 min. It shows. The positive looks great. The dark statue prints nicely in the PC. 400TX in 4148168 on 4 165mm LS lens, Vivitar 2800 flash, 400 line, no panel 1/250 hand held, TTL Pentaprism finder.Daylight window light was on the left, and the face was black +2 exposure at f5.6-8 with a 45 degree bounce flash on Manual.
￼This IS a little light as the statue is so dark. However, it is necessary in order to get the detail to show. It could be printed darker to get the paper to show more notes and the wall to be a little darker. I think that the thicker emulsions are needed to eliminate white specks. Very thin negatives look bad especially in the darks and are loaded with specks.